Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Broder

On the last day of my project, I stop in for some frukost (Swedish for breakfast) at Broder Café on SE Clinton St. There is a short wait, but they’ve opened up a waiting area in next-door Savoy Tavern where there are tables and fresh coffee. Inside, Broder gives off a sort of nouveau country house feel, with brightly painted chairs, small granite tables, wooden floors, lots of light, mirrors, and a big open stainless steel kitchen area. It feels modern and warm. I wonder if they got any of their décor from Ikea. I hate to use “cute” as an adjective, but Broder certainly fits the bill. There are no more than twelve small tables in the entire place; I can see how it would be very packed on weekends. But luckily, Broder is worth the wait.I order the Ableskiver (Danish pancakes) and Gabby orders Pytt I Panna (Swedish hash). Other Scandinavian specialties they promote include poundcake French toast, Bords (which offer a spread of cheese, ham, soft boiled egg, fruit, yogurt, and brown bread), and a special Lefsa, which is a flatbread, which today is wrapped around apples and cheese. As we wait for our food loud poppy music plays, casting an upbeat mood. I can discern a Talking Heads song. The place isn’t self-consciously “trendy” but does seem to attract a mostly 20-year-old hipster crowd, although it is also family friendly. As we wait for our food I begin to see how Broder could maybe be too cutesy for some people. But the true verdict depends on the food.My Danish pancakes arrive on a charming little wooden board. They are light, fluffy balls of delight. Cooked perfectly, steaming, with a light dust of powdered sugar on them. They come with a lemon custard and lingonberry jam to dip in. Gabby’s Pytt I Panna comes in a miniature skillet painted bright orange. Talk about pleasant presentation. Her hash, which features potatoes, ham, roast beef, pickled beets, and baked eggs also comes with a homemade walnut toast. The hash tastes great but is a little on the salty side. Broder is among one of my favorite spots I visited overall. They really do all of the little things right, in addition to having superb food. A special atmosphere, exciting cuisine, charming presentation, and friendly wait staff all make for an incredibly unique experience. Verdict? I’ve gotta atervanda!

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